The corn snake gets its name from the corn granaries that attracted mice and then these mouse predators. It makes a great pet snake. It is usually docile, simple to care for, and does not grow to be very tall. It’s an excellent choice, especially for novice snake owners. These reptiles, on the other hand, are famous because of their wide range of beautiful colors and patterns.
The corn snake is also known as the red rat snake. Corn snakes are found in woodland and forest regions of the southeastern and central United States as far west as Kentucky and Louisiana and as far south as Mexico.
A good-sized cage for a corn snake is a 20-gallon long glass tank (a longer and shallower version of the 20-gallon tank). It’s important to use a lid with a tight fit that can be clamped down from the tip.
Corn snakes need hiding places in order to feel safe. Provide a little hide box big enough for the snake to curl up in. Ideally, there should be an available hiding place in both the cooler and warmer ends of the enclosure. Also, provide a forked branch for climbing.
It’s critical to keep your corn snake’s home at the proper temperature. Although an overhead incandescent heat lamp is preferred, corn snakes are native to temperate climates and do not need tropical temperatures. Maintain an average temperature of 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature at a basking site should be between 85 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature can only decrease to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night.
Corn snakes, on the other hand, enjoy the humidity present in most homes. The ambient air in the enclosure can be between 40 and 50 percent, with up to 60 percent promoting safe shedding. Use a hygrometer to keep an eye on your corn snake enclosure, particularly during the colder winter months when you can need to mist the tank or refill an evaporating water bowl more regularly.
Since these snakes like to burrow and hide, a layer of loose substrate (floor lining) on the enclosure’s bottom is important. The enclosure’s bottom layer may be made of a number of materials. The inkless newspaper is the practical choice because it is easy to wipe, but its presence in the cage is unappealing.
To avoid unwittingly ingesting the shavings, move the snake to a different jar for feeding. Pine or cedar shavings should not be used because the aromatic oils can cause inflammation and respiratory problems in your reptile. Corn snakes don’t like sand, clay, or corncob as substrates.
The common or wild type corn snake has a variety of ground colors ranging from orange to green. The back and sides have black borders with green, purple, or reddish designs. The underside of the tail is normally spotted and the abdomen is checkered black and white. In captivity, albinos and a wide range of color morphs are also developed. Adults reach 2.5-5 ft (0.8-1.5 m) in length.
Corn snakes are normally docile and encourage people to touch them. When attacked, especially in the wild, they can vibrate their tails as a defensive mechanism, similar to rattlesnakes. Corn and rat snakes, like most snakes, are master escape artists.
They’ll press their noses to the cover, searching for flaws and little holes, so the lid’s fit is crucial. If a snake escapes its cage, it can become lost or injured. A snake that has escaped would most likely give your house guests a fair fright.
Infectious stomatitis, also known as mouth rot, is a bacterial infection of the mouth that triggers spit bubbles and irritation in and around the mouth. If left untreated, this ailment will lead to bone infection and the loss of the snake’s teeth. A snake with no teeth would be unable to feed properly.
Fungal disease and respiratory infections are common in corn snakes. Skin discoloration is a sign of fungus infection. Open-mouth breathing or wheezing are symptoms of a respiratory illness. All of these welfare conditions necessitate the attention of a reptile-specific exotic animal veterinarian.
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