Monitors are well-known for being huge, difficult-to-care-for lizards. Many are only appropriate for advanced keepers. However, not all monitor lizards are large and difficult to manage. The Ackie Monitor is one of the tiniest and most user-friendly monitors available. Ackies retain the eye-catching beauty of a monitor lizard while being extremely easy to care for.
The ideal Ackie Monitor enclosure will be one that is handcrafted from sheets of PVC. This will make it much easier to maintain your Ackie’s temps stable. Furthermore, PVC will not decay or mould when damp, as wood will. This means that your enclosure will last for a long time, but a wood enclosure may only last a few years.
You’ll need an enclosure that is at least twice as long as your lizard. As a result, if your pet grows to be 24 inches long, your tank should be at least 4 feet long. However, keep in mind that this is the bare minimum and that extra room is always welcomed. In terms of width, try for a tank that is at least as long as your Ackie.
Ackie Monitors aren’t great climbers, so their tank doesn’t have to be that tall. A height of 2-3 feet is sufficient for burrowing while yet allowing for burrowing. Female Ackie Monitors, in particular, will welcome numerous feet of substrate, as researchers have observed that they enjoy digging nesting burrows.
Ackie Monitors are accustomed to high temperatures and direct sunlight, as they spend their days sunbathing and absorbing the sun’s ultraviolet radiation. This permits them to produce Vitamin D3. Aim for 120 degrees Fahrenheit for neonates (hatchlings) and 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit for juveniles and adults for their basking location.
The best way to obtain this temperature is to hang an overhead ceramic heater. You’ll want an ambient temperature of 90 to 93 degrees Fahrenheit for the heated side. Set the temperature on the chilly side of the container to between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This will give your Ackie Monitor plenty of room to escape the heat of the warm side if they so desire.
Because the Ackie Monitor requires UVB in addition to heat, you’ll need to offer some form of UVB bulb. A fluorescent tube UVB bulb is by far the most popular and recommended option among both novice and expert reptile owners. Regardless of the heat and UVB bulbs you purchase, you should keep all lights on for 12 hours a day to simulate the natural day-to-night cycle.
You should offer at least 6 inches of substrate for your Ackie Monitor to burrow in. However, a substrate depth of 10 to 12 inches is more suited for it. Indeed, the substrate should contribute to a humidity level of 65-80 percent in the Ackie Monitor’s enclosure. It is also critical to choose a soil that is loosely packed to allow for easy digging. To keep the soil moist, spray it on a regular basis or remove it and mix it with extra water.
Ackie monitors are stunning creatures that resemble little Komodo dragons at first glance. Their heads are pointed, with huge eyes, prominent ear holes, and a spiky tail. Their tails can be twice as long as their bodies. The rest of their body is covered in little spherical scales that protect them from the Australian heat and dry.
The tail of yellow Ackies is somewhat shorter than that of red monitors. They are dark brown or black in color, with vivid yellow markings and a white and black tail. When opposed to their red counterparts, many yellow monitors have a more sharply striped face and neck.
The red subspecies are rusty red in color, with a cream belly and white or yellow rosettes running down their back. Their tails are striped with alternating white and brown bands that can be broken up into a checkered pattern. They have two white stripes down each side of their face, with a black stripe running across the center of their eyes.
The Ackie monitor is a highly active lizard with a wide range. Because they are usually seen in small groups in the wild, they can be housed together in captivity if appropriate space is provided. If more than one are kept in the same enclosure, they will form a dominance hierarchy. Dominant monitors may chase and bite other monitors, however this is usually done for fun rather than aggression.
However, keep a watch on individuals housed together and separate them quickly if any are injured. Ackies have long, curved claws that allow them to climb and dig. Ackie monitors will try to run or burrow away from danger if they are threatened. If they can’t escape, they’ll use their tails as a spiky club to ward off predators.
When held gently and attentively, pet species are easy to tame and rarely show anger towards their owner. They, like all monitors, are quite intelligent and require a lot of stimulus to keep happy. Enrichment for your monitor can be provided with an enclosure that stimulates natural behaviors such as digging and climbing. Monitors who are bored may become inactive or acquire repeated behaviors.
Ackie Monitors are a generally hardy reptile with few health issues. They can, however, be prone to special difficulties. Ackie Monitors, like most reptiles that require UVB, are susceptible to Metabolic Bone Disease. This condition occurs when an Ackie is unable to absorb calcium effectively, resulting in brittle bones, malformations, and, in severe cases, death.
Most of the time, this happens because an Ackie Monitor isn’t getting enough UVB, which they need to absorb calcium. This implies that owners will need to take extra precautions to ensure that their Ackie receives adequate UVB and that bulbs are replaced every 6 months. Owners would also be advised to dust feeders with calcium, as recommended in the food section above.
Obesity can also be an issue, given the Ackie Monitor’s voracious appetite. However, if you keep a close eye on your pet’s size and make proper feeding modifications as needed, you can avoid this problem.
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